Sewing Patterns Vs. Ready-to-Wear: Size Differences Explained
Hey everyone! Ever wondered why the size on a sewing pattern seems totally different from the size you normally buy off the rack? You're not alone! It's a common head-scratcher for many sewists, both newbies and seasoned pros. Let's dive into the fascinating world of sewing pattern sizes versus ready-to-wear sizes and unlock the secrets to getting the perfect fit for your handmade garments.
Understanding the Size Discrepancy
Sewing pattern sizes often differ significantly from ready-to-wear sizes. This difference can lead to confusion and frustration, especially for those new to sewing. Unlike the standardized, and often vanity-sized, world of retail clothing, sewing patterns adhere to a different set of standards rooted in historical fitting practices. The key thing to remember, guys, is that a size 12 in a sewing pattern is not the same as a size 12 in a store-bought dress. Don't freak out; it doesn't mean you've suddenly gained a size (or two, or three!). It just means you need to approach pattern sizing with a different mindset. Pattern companies use their own sizing charts, which are based on body measurements, not the final garment measurements. This is a crucial distinction. The pattern includes ease, which is the extra room added to the garment for comfort and movement. Ready-to-wear clothing, on the other hand, often incorporates vanity sizing, where the labeled size is smaller than the actual garment measurements to make customers feel good. Moreover, ready-to-wear sizing varies wildly between brands. One brand's size 10 might be another's size 12, or even a size 8! This inconsistency makes it even more important to understand how to accurately choose your sewing pattern size based on your own body measurements, rather than relying on what you usually buy in stores. So, ditch the ready-to-wear size expectations and embrace the measuring tape. Your sewing success depends on it!
Why the Difference Matters
Understanding the differences between sewing pattern sizes and ready-to-wear sizes is paramount for achieving a well-fitted, satisfying final product. Ignoring this distinction can lead to garments that are either too small and constricting, or too large and shapeless, ultimately wasting your time, effort, and precious fabric. Imagine spending hours meticulously cutting, sewing, and pressing a beautiful dress, only to find that it doesn't fit properly because you chose the wrong size based on your usual store-bought size. What a bummer, right? The key is recognizing that sewing patterns are designed to be customized to your unique body shape and size. By accurately measuring yourself and selecting the corresponding pattern size, you're setting yourself up for success. This approach allows you to fine-tune the fit during the sewing process, making alterations where necessary to achieve a truly personalized garment. Furthermore, understanding the difference helps you interpret the pattern instructions and diagrams more effectively. Pattern instructions often assume that you've chosen the correct size based on your measurements, and any alterations you make will be relative to that starting point. So, if you start with the wrong size, the alterations might not be as effective, and you could end up with a garment that still doesn't fit quite right. Embrace the power of accurate measurements and choose your sewing pattern size wisely. It's the first step towards creating a wardrobe of beautifully fitted, handmade clothes that you'll love to wear.
Taking Accurate Body Measurements
Accurate body measurements are the cornerstone of selecting the correct sewing pattern size. This step is absolutely crucial, so grab a friend (or a full-length mirror!) and let's get measuring! Use a flexible measuring tape and wear the type of undergarments you would typically wear with the garment you plan to sew. Keep the measuring tape snug but not too tight, and stand in a relaxed, natural posture. Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape parallel to the floor. Waist: Measure around your natural waistline, which is usually the narrowest part of your torso. Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips, keeping the tape parallel to the floor. Back Waist Length: Measure from the prominent bone at the base of your neck (the cervical vertebra) down to your natural waistline. Girth/Torso: Measure from the center of your shoulder, down the front, through your legs and up the back to the starting point on your shoulder. These measurements should be compared to the pattern's size chart, not your ready-to-wear size. Each pattern company has its own size chart, so be sure to consult the chart specific to the pattern you're using. If your measurements fall between sizes, it's generally recommended to choose the larger size, as it's easier to take in a garment than to let it out. Don't be tempted to fudge the measurements or rely on guesswork. Spending the time to get accurate measurements will pay off in the long run with a better-fitting garment.
Comparing Measurements to Pattern Size Charts
Comparing your measurements to the pattern size chart is a critical step in determining the correct pattern size to use. Once you have your accurate body measurements, the next step is to carefully compare them to the specific size chart provided with the sewing pattern you intend to use. Don't assume that all pattern companies use the same sizing system; each company has its own unique chart. Locate the size chart on the pattern envelope or instruction booklet, and look for the measurements that correspond to your bust, waist, and hip measurements. Remember, you might fall into different sizes for different areas of your body. For example, you might be a size 10 in the bust, a size 12 in the waist, and a size 10 in the hips. In this case, you would need to choose a size based on the garment's design and your personal preferences. If the garment is fitted at the waist, you might choose a size 12 and then grade down to a size 10 at the bust and hips. If the garment is more relaxed, you might choose a size 10 and then add extra room at the waist. Pay close attention to the finished garment measurements as well. These measurements indicate the actual size of the garment after it's sewn, including any ease that has been added. Compare the finished garment measurements to your own body measurements to get an idea of how much ease the pattern includes. This will help you determine if you need to make any alterations to the pattern to achieve your desired fit. Don't be afraid to trace off the pattern in your size and then make adjustments based on your body measurements, especially if you are between sizes. The goal is to get the best fit possible before you even start cutting into your fabric.
Understanding Ease
Understanding ease is crucial for achieving a comfortable and well-fitting garment. Ease is the amount of extra fabric added to a sewing pattern to allow for movement and comfort. It's the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements. There are two main types of ease: wearing ease and design ease. Wearing ease is the minimum amount of ease needed for you to be able to move and breathe comfortably in the garment. Design ease is the additional ease added to create a particular silhouette or style. For example, a fitted dress might have very little design ease, while a loose, flowing dress might have a lot of design ease. The amount of ease included in a pattern will vary depending on the garment's design and the pattern company's preferences. Some patterns will indicate the amount of ease included, while others will not. To determine the amount of ease, compare your body measurements to the finished garment measurements on the pattern. The difference between the two is the amount of ease. For example, if your bust measurement is 36 inches and the finished bust measurement of the garment is 40 inches, then the pattern includes 4 inches of ease in the bust. When choosing a pattern size, consider the amount of ease included and how it will affect the fit of the garment. If you prefer a more fitted look, you might choose a size that is closer to your body measurements. If you prefer a more relaxed look, you might choose a size that is larger than your body measurements. You can also adjust the pattern to add or subtract ease as needed. For example, if you want to add more ease to the bust, you can add width to the pattern pieces at the bust line. Understanding ease will help you choose the right pattern size and make any necessary alterations to achieve a comfortable and well-fitting garment.
Common Fitting Adjustments
Common fitting adjustments are often necessary to achieve a truly custom fit, even after selecting the correct pattern size based on your measurements. Bodies are wonderfully diverse, and patterns are designed to fit a generalized body shape. Therefore, it's rare for a pattern to fit perfectly straight out of the envelope. Some of the most common fitting adjustments include: Lengthening or shortening the bodice: This adjustment is necessary if your back waist length is different from the pattern's standard back waist length. Lengthening or shortening the sleeves: This adjustment is necessary if your arm length is different from the pattern's standard arm length. Adjusting the bust: This adjustment is necessary if your bust size is different from the pattern's standard bust size. This might involve doing a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) or a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA). Adjusting the waist: This adjustment is necessary if your waist size is different from the pattern's standard waist size. Adjusting the hips: This adjustment is necessary if your hip size is different from the pattern's standard hip size. Grading between sizes: This adjustment is necessary if your measurements fall into different sizes for different areas of your body. For example, you might be a size 10 in the bust, a size 12 in the waist, and a size 10 in the hips. In this case, you would need to grade between sizes to achieve a good fit. There are many resources available online and in sewing books that can teach you how to make these common fitting adjustments. Don't be afraid to experiment and practice. The more you practice, the better you'll become at achieving a custom fit. Remember, the goal is to create a garment that fits your body perfectly and makes you feel confident and comfortable.
Tips for a Successful Sewing Project
To ensure a successful sewing project, consider these helpful tips. First, always pre-wash your fabric to prevent shrinkage after sewing. This is especially important for natural fibers like cotton and linen. Second, choose the right fabric for your pattern. The pattern instructions will usually recommend specific types of fabric that will work well with the design. Third, use the correct needle and thread for your fabric. A universal needle will work for most fabrics, but you may need a different type of needle for delicate fabrics like silk or heavy fabrics like denim. Fourth, press your fabric as you sew. Pressing seams open or to the side will give your garment a more professional finish. Fifth, don't be afraid to ask for help. There are many online sewing communities and local sewing groups where you can get advice and support. Sixth, be patient and don't give up. Sewing can be challenging, but it's also very rewarding. With practice and patience, you can create beautiful, custom-made garments that you'll be proud to wear. Seventh, always make a muslin or test garment before cutting into your final fabric. This will allow you to check the fit and make any necessary adjustments before you start sewing the real thing. By following these tips, you'll be well on your way to creating successful sewing projects that you'll love.
Conclusion
Navigating sewing pattern sizes versus ready-to-wear sizes might seem daunting at first, but armed with the right knowledge and a trusty measuring tape, you can conquer this challenge. Remember, sewing patterns are designed for customization, so embrace the process of measuring, comparing, and adjusting to create garments that fit you perfectly. Forget about those confusing ready-to-wear sizes and focus on your unique body measurements. With a little practice and patience, you'll be sewing up a storm of beautifully fitted, handmade clothes that you'll love to wear. Happy sewing, everyone!