Candle Making Glossary: Your Ultimate Guide

Oct 29, 2025 by SLV Team 44 views

Hey candle enthusiasts! Ever get lost in the jargon of candle making? Don't sweat it – we've all been there. Candle making can feel like learning a whole new language, with terms like "bloom," "flashpoint," and "wick size" flying around. That's why I've put together this ultimate candle making glossary, your go-to resource for understanding all the essential terms. Whether you're a newbie just starting out or a seasoned pro looking to brush up on your knowledge, this guide has got you covered. Consider this your personal dictionary to decode the world of candles, making your crafting journey smoother and more enjoyable. So, grab your wicks and wax, and let's dive in! This candle making glossary is designed to demystify the process and boost your candle-making game. Understanding these terms will not only improve your candle-making skills but also help you communicate more effectively with fellow crafters, troubleshoot problems, and choose the right supplies. Let's light up your understanding and make some awesome candles!

A to Z Candle Making Terms

Alright, guys, let's jump right into the heart of the matter! This section is an A-to-Z breakdown of essential candle-making terms. Each entry is explained in plain English, so you won't need a translator. From the basics to the more technical aspects, we'll unravel the language of candles together. Ready? Let's get started!

Anchor: The base of a wick that helps it stand upright in the candle. It's often a metal tab or a specialized adhesive to secure the wick. Think of it as the foundation, making sure your wick stays put during the entire burn.
Bloom: A whitish, crystalline coating that can appear on the surface of a candle, especially soy wax candles. It's caused by the wax reverting to its natural state. You can usually remove it by gently wiping the candle or by applying heat with a heat gun. It doesn't affect the candle's burn.
Burn Pool: The melted wax at the top of a burning candle. The size of the burn pool affects how well the scent is released and how evenly the candle burns. Getting the right burn pool is key for a great candle. The burn pool diameter should ideally be one inch per hour of burn time.
Candle Additives: Substances added to wax to improve its performance, appearance, or scent throw. These include UV inhibitors, hardeners, and scent boosters. Additives can make a huge difference in the final product. Examples include stearic acid, which hardens the wax.
Cold Throw: The scent a candle gives off when it's not lit. It’s what you smell before you light it up. A good cold throw gives you an idea of the fragrance, but it doesn't always reflect the hot throw.
Containers: The vessels that hold the wax, wick, and fragrance. They come in various shapes and sizes and can be made from glass, metal, or other materials. The right container is important for both safety and aesthetics. Ensure the container is heat-resistant.
Cure Time: The time it takes for a candle's fragrance to fully bind with the wax. This is often recommended to be a week or two. It allows the fragrance oils to meld with the wax, resulting in a stronger scent throw. Patience is key, folks!
Double Boiler: A method of heating wax using two pots – one with water and the other holding the wax. This technique provides gentle, even heat, reducing the risk of overheating. It’s a safer alternative to direct heat.
Essential Oils: Natural fragrance oils derived from plants. They provide a pure, natural scent but often have a lower scent throw than fragrance oils.
Flashpoint: The lowest temperature at which a substance gives off enough vapor to ignite in the presence of an ignition source. Knowing the flashpoint of your fragrance oil is crucial for safety.
Fragrance Load: The percentage of fragrance oil added to the wax. The right fragrance load is crucial to achieve the desired scent throw without affecting the wax's burn performance. The general rule is between 6% to 10% for soy wax and 6-12% for paraffin wax.
Fragrance Oils: Synthetic or natural oils used to scent candles. They come in a wide variety of scents and are often more potent than essential oils.
Frosting: A white, crystalline structure that can form on soy wax candles. It's a natural effect of soy wax and doesn't affect the candle's performance.
Gel Wax: A type of wax made from mineral oil and a polymer resin. It's known for its transparency and is often used to create candles with embedded objects.
Hot Throw: The scent a candle gives off when it's burning. It’s a key factor in evaluating a candle's fragrance quality.
Melt Point: The temperature at which a solid wax becomes liquid. Knowing the melt point is critical for the candle-making process.
Pouring Temperature: The temperature at which the wax is poured into the container. It affects the candle's appearance and burn quality.
Primary Container: The main container that will hold the candle. It could be a jar, tin, or any other heat-resistant vessel.
Secondary Container: A container used to heat the wax, such as a double boiler or a microwave-safe pitcher.
Scent Throw: The intensity of the fragrance released by a candle, both when cold and when burning. It’s a measure of how well a candle distributes its fragrance.
Soy Wax: A type of wax made from soybean oil. It's a popular choice due to its clean burn and eco-friendliness.
Stearic Acid: A hardening agent that can be added to wax to make candles firmer and improve their appearance.
Tarts/Wax Melts: Scented wax pieces melted in a warmer to release fragrance. They are wickless and are only heated by an external heat source.
UV Inhibitors: Additives that help protect the wax and fragrance oils from fading due to exposure to ultraviolet light.
Votive: Small, often unscented candles that are burned in a glass holder. They melt entirely when burning.
Wax: The main component of a candle, providing the fuel for the flame. It can be made from various materials, including soy, paraffin, and beeswax.
Wick: The central element of a candle, which draws up the melted wax to fuel the flame. The wick type and size depend on the wax and container.
Wick Clip: A metal piece that holds the wick in place at the bottom of the container. It's essential for keeping the wick centered.
Wick Size: The diameter of the wick, crucial for ensuring an even burn and preventing tunneling or drowning. Choosing the right wick size is crucial.

Deep Dive into Candle Making Terms Explained

Alright, folks, now that we've covered the basics, let's get into some more specific and detailed definitions. We'll explore the 'why' and 'how' behind many of these terms, providing a deeper understanding. This section is all about expanding your knowledge and boosting your candle-making game to the next level. Let's get right into it!

Candle Additives: Enhancing Your Creations – Candle additives, like stearic acid, UV inhibitors, and hardeners, play a crucial role in improving your candle's performance. Stearic acid, for instance, hardens the wax, which helps create a more durable candle and prevents it from melting too quickly. UV inhibitors protect the wax and fragrance oils from fading when exposed to light, ensuring your candles maintain their color and scent for longer. These additives can significantly enhance the candle's appearance, burn time, and overall quality. Adding these can greatly improve the appearance and performance of the candles.
Container Matters: Choosing the Right Vessel – The choice of container significantly impacts the candle's aesthetic appeal and burn characteristics. Heat-resistant materials like glass and metal are essential for safety. The size and shape of the container affect the burn pool and scent throw. For example, wider containers create wider burn pools, which can release more fragrance. It’s also crucial to consider the container's design; it should be aesthetically pleasing and safe. The use of a container can also affect the evenness of the candle’s burn, as well as the appearance. This ensures you're able to deliver a high-quality product.
Flashpoint and Safety: Protecting Yourself and Your Space – Knowing the flashpoint of your fragrance oils is paramount for safety. The flashpoint is the temperature at which a substance can ignite when exposed to a flame. Always check the flashpoint of the fragrance oil you are using before adding it to the wax. This is essential to prevent accidents. Always work in a well-ventilated area, and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Safety first, folks!
Fragrance Load: Balancing Scent and Performance – The fragrance load is the percentage of fragrance oil you add to the wax. It impacts the strength of the scent and the burn quality of the candle. Typically, you should use between 6% to 10% fragrance load for soy wax and 6-12% for paraffin wax. Adding too much fragrance oil can lead to issues like the candle not burning properly. The right fragrance load ensures a good scent throw without compromising the candle’s burn.
Hot Throw vs. Cold Throw: Maximizing Scent Delivery – The difference between cold throw and hot throw is critical for evaluating your candle's performance. Cold throw refers to the scent you perceive when the candle is not lit, while hot throw is the scent released when the candle is burning. A great candle has both a good cold throw and a strong hot throw. Evaluating both is key for a well-rounded fragrance experience.
Wick Selection: Mastering the Flame – Choosing the correct wick size is crucial for an even and efficient burn. The wick’s size depends on factors like the wax type, the container's diameter, and the fragrance load. If the wick is too small, the candle may tunnel, leaving unmelted wax around the edges. If the wick is too large, the candle may produce excessive soot or burn too quickly. Experimenting with different wick sizes is often necessary to achieve the optimal burn for your candles. The wrong wick can ruin the experience of your candle.

Troubleshooting Common Candle Problems

Even with the best practices, sometimes things don't go according to plan, right? Here's how to solve some common problems in candle making:

Tunnelling: The candle burns down the center, leaving unmelted wax around the edges. This often happens because the wick is too small. Try a larger wick or burn the candle for a longer period. Try a new wick size to ensure your candle burns more evenly.
Sooting: Black smoke is produced, and the container gets sooty. This typically happens because the wick is too large. Trim the wick before each burn or use a smaller wick. A smaller wick is very essential to reduce the black smoke.
Frosting: A white, crystalline coating appears on the surface of soy wax candles. It's a natural effect and doesn't affect the burn. You can often eliminate it by applying heat with a heat gun. Frosting is normal in soy wax candles and is not considered a defect.
Poor Scent Throw: The candle doesn't release enough fragrance. Ensure you're using the right fragrance load and that you've allowed the candle to cure properly. Using high-quality fragrance oils is also important. Ensure that you used a good quality scent oil.
Wet Spots: This occurs when the wax pulls away from the container. It's a cosmetic issue and often results from rapid cooling. Try pouring the wax at a lower temperature or preheating the containers. These spots can affect the appearance of the candle.

Conclusion: Your Path to Candle Mastery

So there you have it, guys! We've covered a wide range of terms and concepts to help you master the craft of candle making. Armed with this candle making glossary, you're now well-equipped to navigate the world of wicks, waxes, and fragrances with confidence. Keep experimenting, keep learning, and most importantly, keep enjoying the process. Happy candle making, and may your creations always shine brightly!